Do-it-yourself Wall Insulation With Foam: Installation Instructions

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Do-it-yourself Wall Insulation With Foam: Installation Instructions
Do-it-yourself Wall Insulation With Foam: Installation Instructions

Video: Do-it-yourself Wall Insulation With Foam: Installation Instructions

Video: Do-it-yourself Wall Insulation With Foam: Installation Instructions
Video: How to Install Spray Foam Insulation DIY 2024, March
Anonim

It is necessary to insulate the walls of the house with foam plastic after surface preparation. The building is insulated from the outside using special tools and materials. Installation of insulation boards requires careful adherence to the instructions.

Do-it-yourself wall insulation with foam plastic
Do-it-yourself wall insulation with foam plastic

The technology of wall insulation with foam plates is the most suitable way to reduce heat loss during house operation in winter. The work is done by hand in stages, since the installation of heat-insulating material is difficult. A project and a scheme for insulating the walls of the building from the outside with foam plastic are preliminarily drawn up.

Preparation of the wall surface before insulation

For high-quality thermal insulation of walls with foam plastic, the insulated surface must be properly prepared. Insulation installation technology requires a lot of effort, so the whole process of performing work is long. Actions related to the preparation of the walls of the house are carried out in stages:

  1. The facade of the house is temporarily freed from unnecessary elements, which are ventilation grilles, drain pipes, air conditioners, electric wires, lamps with spotlights, old decorative elements on the windows with cornices.
  2. The walls of the house are checked for irregularities, slopes, for the strength of the plaster layer, for which it is necessary to use a plumb line, a rule and a cord.
  3. The oil paint that covered the facade must be removed, as well as greasy stains, rust or mold.
  4. Irregularities and cracks on the walls are primed with a deep penetration compound with a brush, which is a special brush, and after the primer has dried, a cement-based putty is used for outdoor work.
  5. Large irregularities more than 1.5 cm are first primed, and then the surface is plastered.

If the walls of the house are lined with bricks, then the primer is applied only 1 time, and if from aerated concrete, then 2 times. A large brush or roller can be used to apply the compound to the surface. If communications remain on the surface of the wall, then they will need to be closed with insulation. For this, a detailed plan for the location of fasteners or dowels is drawn up.

Pinning the start profile

After studying the project, you need to decide on the line along which the lower border of the foam insulation will pass. This line must be measured at the corners of the building using a hydraulic level. A cord is pulled along the marked points, which indicates the line of attachment of the initial profile. On this element, the tile material of the lower row must be fixed.

The starting profile must be reinforced around the perimeter of the house with anchors or dowels. The profile ensures that the sheets of heat-insulating material are kept from shifting downward until the glue used to fix the composition is completely dry. The width of the starting profile must correspond to the size of the end part of the insulation sheet.

To fasten the plank, dowel-nails are used, placed every 30-35 cm. As expanding parts, you can use hammer nails, on which washers are put on. The corners of the building are formed by a starting bar with an oblique cut. To do this, you can use the corner connector. It is unacceptable to overlap the individual elements of the starting strip.

Bonding insulation to the wall of the house

Foam insulation boards are installed starting from the corner of the building from the bottom. First, a special glue is applied to the surface of the insulation. A portion of the adhesive does not thicken within 1, 5-2 hours, so the prepared mixture should be used immediately.

It is necessary to knead the glue in a plastic bucket, where water is poured, and then the composition is poured. So that there are no lumps in the solution, the mixture should be stirred with a mixer with a nozzle. The adhesive composition swells within 5 minutes, after which an electric drill is used again, which has a special nozzle for mixing the liquid. If after a few minutes the glue becomes thick again, then it should be mixed again without adding water.

Laying of polystyrene plates is carried out with bandaging of seams based on the bricklaying method. When the glue mixture is applied, the heat insulator will need to be pressed against the wall surface, and then leveled. The evenness of adhesion should be controlled using a building level. There should be no glue mixture on the ends of the boards. The outer wall should be completely filled with insulation, and then left for 3 days until the glue is completely dry. Methods for applying the adhesive to the foam can be as follows:

  1. Coating the foam plate with glue is carried out with an indent of 2 cm with surface differences up to 1.5 cm.
  2. A 3-4 cm wide adhesive strip is applied to the boards along the perimeter, including the central part.
  3. The base of the slab is covered with glue using a special notched trowel, if it is required to insulate even walls with an error of about 5 mm.

After pressing the insulation against the wall, the glue will begin to distribute and occupy the entire space, since the plate will be 60% covered with adhesive. In the second case, it may be necessary to apply about 5-7 cm of adhesive beacons with a diameter of 10 cm. The composition must be applied with a dotted line, and not in the form of a continuous strip.

After applying the glue to the material, it is impossible to hesitate in gluing the boards, which must be fixed on the wall within 20 minutes. The foam element is pre-applied to the wall with an offset to the side by 2-3 cm from the space to which the insulation will need to be glued. Then the slab must be shifted to the neighboring sheet, checking the installation accuracy with the rule of determining deviations from the wall plane.

Aligning and fixing boards with dowels

The distance between the boards during installation must be up to 2 mm. If it is larger, then all gaps are filled with construction foam. The seams should not be filled with glue, but the joints must be closed, for which the boards are glued with an offset. It is best not to move the board if it is not glued flat. It is necessary to remove it from the surface, spread a fresh layer of glue on it, and then re-attach the element to the wall.

In the process of laying foam plates, it is necessary to monitor the ratio of joints with openings of doors and windows, since the slopes should not have common lines with the seams. The slab displacement should not be less than 20 cm. For example, if two annexes are made of different building materials, then the joint of 2 adjacent foam plastic slabs must be located at least 10 cm from the border of the main structure and annex to it.

The slabs at the corners of the building should be connected by a bandage method, which will exclude the formation of a long seam that can cause cracks. The heat insulator must go to the adjacent wall, therefore, when laying, it is necessary to leave a margin. After the glue has completely set at the corner, carefully cut off the excess board using a thin file or a wide knife.

The final fixing of the insulation is performed after the glue has completely dried, i.e. after 3 days. For this purpose, you can use elastic plastic dowels with a wide perforated head that resembles an umbrella. The fixing of the fastener is carried out using a hammer-in nail or a screw-in pin. Plastic nails prevent cold bridges better than metal ones. The length of the dowel is selected depending on the thickness of the heat insulator and the material from which the walls are made:

  • concrete - 5 cm;
  • brick - 9 cm;
  • cellular blocks - 12 cm.

Dowels are fastened in each corner and in the center of the slab. For a wall surface area of 1 m2, 6-8 dowels are required. Holes are pre-drilled with a perforator to a depth that exceeds 1-1.5 cm the length of the dowel. In the process of using fasteners, you need to monitor its strict perpendicularity.

Installation of a reinforcing layer

The corners of window and door openings are pasted over with a reinforcing mesh, which avoids the appearance of cracks in the wall. To strengthen the corners of a house with slopes, you will need to use perforated aluminum or plastic corners. You can fix the elements with glue, and then press them to the foam plate with a spatula. Before use, the corners must be trimmed and the protruding adhesive smoothed out.

After the glue has dried, you can proceed to reinforcing the heat-insulating layer. This will require an alkali-resistant fiberglass facade mesh. The material is not subject to stretching, therefore, the load supported by a strip of mesh with a width of about 5 cm is up to 1.25 kN. Reinforcing mesh is installed in stages:

  1. Foam insulation boards are sanded to smooth out irregularities in the places where the boards were connected using coarse sandpaper and a float.
  2. The cleaned surface of the insulation is covered with a layer of solution of about 2 mm.
  3. Sections of mesh are prepared for reinforcement with a size equal to the height of the walls.
  4. The glue solution is applied to the pieces of material with a metal float or a scraper.
  5. The mesh is pressed against the wall with a smooth trowel after spreading the material in the mortar.
  6. The material is leveled from the middle of the slab to the edges without pulling and pressing against the thermal insulation.

Excess adhesive must be spread over the wall surface. After the first layer has dried, the next layer is applied with a thickness of 2 mm. Another strip of mesh is applied to the left edge 10 cm so that the segments overlap each other by 10 cm. To fill in irregularities, a putty is used, which requires the adhesive to dry completely. This happens one day after the completion of the work.

Wall insulation recommendations

It is necessary to carry out work on wall insulation with foam plates from the outside in conditions of positive temperatures, the fluctuation of which occurs in the range from + 5 to + 25 ° C. The heat insulator should not be exposed to precipitation or direct sunlight, it should not be used to insulate walls in conditions of high humidity of more than 80%. For work, you will need scaffolding to reach all side surfaces. It is better to mount these devices 20-30 cm from the walls.

To protect windows and doors, you should use plastic wrap, which is necessary for the safety of communications laid outside the building. Foam insulation can start to turn yellow if it has not been reinforced. An emery cloth is used to remove deposits.

With a lack of experience, it is better to start work on a less visible wall in order to gradually work out the technology. The presence of protective metal elements allows you to reliably close the bevels. Do not forget about the ebb tide on the windows. Reinforcement should be done on one wall as

continuous process. The most suitable material for this method of thermal insulation is polystyrene with a density of at least 25 kg / m3. You cannot glue the insulation with tile glue, since the result will not be positive.

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